DOMAINE SÉROL
CÔTES ROANNAISE
Just 70 km west of Beaujolais, in the foothills of the Massif Central, Côtes Roannaise is a tiny Gamay focused appellation. Akin to cru Beaujolais with its sandy, granite soils and Gamay focus, but 1/100th the size, its vineyards are found at higher altitudes (350-500m) and ripen later. It is cooler here and Gamay is known as Gamay Saint-Romain. Unlike the Gamay in Beaujolais, St Romain has loosely spaced berries that vary in size, leading to naturally lower yields. This terroir makes for crisp wines of small red fruits and a spicy freshness that richer Beaujolais doesn’t achieve.
Stéphane and Carine Sérol are the fifth generation of Domaine Sérol, taking the reins in 1996. Their vineyards are organically and biodynamically certified and Stéphane is renowned across France for his work in viticulture; he recently elevated the winery to carbon neutral, installing a geothermal system. Their mouth-watering wines are a product of their densely planted vineyards (8000-10000 per hectare), old vines (some dating to the 1930s) and high-altitude sites (400-500m). Fermentations are natural and the wines are refreshing, vibrant and mineral, a testament to great wine making skill.
Domaine Sérol is a triumph from the little-known end of the Loire valley. As one of the most important producers of Côte Roannaise, they add a strong voice to ‘Loire Volcanique’, a recent initiative to unite like-minded growers from neighbouring appellations Auvergne, Forez and Saint-Pourçain. The group exists to communicate the terroirs of the southern section of the Loire valley and Massif Central. The Sérol’s are also viticultural partners with Michel Troisgros, famed local chef from one of France’s top institutions, Maison Troisgros. It is here that revered author Jancis Robinson discovered Sérol’s wines, helping to introduce them to an international audience.
THE WINES
NV Domaine Sérol ‘Turbullent’ Pet-Nat Rosé
A bottle of utter delight from our favourite Gamay producer. Pink, pure and zesty, it is wall to wall with gently foaming red fruits and streaks of minerality. This is about as good as pet nat gets!
"Delicious! Wicked drinking, rosy with red cherries, sappy texture, little nibble of chalky tannin, bright, pink grapefruit acidity. Fun. It zips along at pace with a friendly, red fruited delivery. Drinkability is through the roof! Yes." - Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Domaine Sérol Chenin Blanc Sur-Granite ‘Champtoisé’(1.5l Magnums available)
In 2018 their good mates at Domaine Huet and François Chidaine gave the Sérol family Chenin Blanc cuttings from their best parcels. These were tightly planted in a 1.9 hectare vineyard at 400m next to the Sérol’s most important cru for Gamay, 'Perdrizière'. This is a singular look at exceptional Chenin DNA planted to granite at altitude in Loire Volcanique.
Pear drops, lemon flower/pith and squeaky lime are amongst the aromatics. The hidden breath of large format oak melds with white nectarine and yellow orchard fruit, helping the wine expand over its sleek acidity. Salty minerals sparkle through the whole thing.
Winemaking, vineyard details and tech info here.
Domaine Sérol ‘Melting Potes’ Rouge (1.5l Magnums available)
'Melting Potes' is a blend of Gamay, Syrah and Grenache made in the bright, aromatic style of Domaine Serol. It is a pretty, poised-yet-juicy red with great tension and freshness. For lovers of Gamay and wines of freshness and purity.
In 2021 Carine and Stephane lost so much fruit which lead their friends, neighbours and peers to donate organically grown fruit to them so that they could make some wine...One of the most precise vignerons in France, Stephane created something beautiful.
Domaine Sérol ‘Eclat de Granit’ Côtes Roannaise AOP (1.5l Magnums available)
Generous, perfumed Gamay from this superstar organic/biodynamic producer. These guys are masters of whole bunch fermentation where stems are added, bringing extra life and vitality to the wine. It has gorgeous, crystalline perfume and crunchy-fresh, spiced fruit. Beautiful.
Domaine Sérol ‘Oudan’ Côtes Roannaise AOP
Fruit for this cru Gamay is grown in a 2 hectare, heavily granitic south facing site at 400-450m elevation. It is a deeper-set offering than 'Eclat', showing the same perfume married with more serious darker fruit and understated structure. It spends a year in large old oak. It’s possible to draw a comparison with Croze-Hermitage here.
Domaine Sérol ‘Chez Coste’ Côtes Roannaise AOP
Initiated in the 1980s, 'Chez Coste' is a densely planted sub-section of 1.5 hectare cru vineyard 'Perdrizière', facing east at 400m. It is one of the prized jewels of the appellation and ripens late. Grapes are de-stemmed and vinified in porous amphora with maceration lasting around 6 months without sulphur. Pressing is very slow and gentle followed by another 6 months ageing in the same vessel.
Striking, silky and exquisitely refined, this is a textural masterclass in, and exploration of, Gamay. Along with violet, dense cherry and squishy strawberry there's spice and flickers of citrus zest and iron. 'Chez Coste' has depth and amplitude with fine, supple tannins that bolster and lift it. It is so seamlessly clear that you can get lost in it. Bloody excellent, highly limited.
Winemaking, vineyard details and tech info here.
FURTHER READING
To read more on Domaine Sérol follow the links below:
https://www.beckywasserman.com/domaines/robert-serol/#.Ybav131Bzzc