COUME DEL MAS
Collioure & Banyuls
“(Coume Del Mas) delivers a level of precision and elegance one wouldn’t normally associate with this wild southwest corner of the French coast. Their wines exemplify the terrific quality of still, dry wines emerging from a region previously associated with sweet, fortified ones.”
Coume del Mas was created in 2001 by Philippe and Nathalie Gard, modern pioneers of Roussillon. Joining them in the mid 2000s was Andy Cook who handles the winemaking in his refined, natural, fruit pure style. Their 15 hectare holdings are composed of gnarly old vines centered around Banyuls-sur-Mer and Collioure. Viticulture in this extreme environment is almost entirely done by hand on steep schist slopes, giving wines of incredible depth and freshness. They have led the way in this Catalan leaning region for 15 years, illustrating their terroir through dry wines of elegant concentration and via elite sweet bottlings of both oxidative and modern ‘rimage’ styles. The ‘Tramontane’ and ‘Consolation’ brands were added to explore other ancient zones further inland.
COUME DEL MAS - FORTIFIEDS
Both Banyuls wines are produced from intense, extremely ripe Grenache Noir fruit that is fortified at around 8% with a neutral grape spirit. Akin to Port in some respects, these wines however, are lower in alcohol and much ‘finer’, fresher and balanced. True Mediterranen treasures. ‘Tradition’ is a NV wine that goes through many years of oxidative ageing in various barrels. The current vintage of Tradition has components blended back to 2008. Match with cured meats, nuts and cheeses. ‘Galateo’ is fortified on skins - a key procedure that helps extraction of colour, tannin and prevents oxidation. The wine is aged in 225 litre, older oak casks for a minimum of six months before bottling. Match with red meat, fruits and cheese.
“Coume del Mas ‘Galateo’ Banyuls is youthful, packed with smoky dark fruit and even though it is sweet, it somehow tastes much drier than it is. Underlying power is tempered by elegant restraint, the tannins are compact yet extremely fine, like layer upon layer of tissue paper, and there’s freshness, beautiful balance and persistence.” - Julia Harding MW (Jancis Robinson)
THE WINES
Coume del Mas ‘Folio’ Collioure AOP Blanc
90% Grenache Gris and 10% Grenache Blanc from schist soils, 'Folio' is fermented with indigenous yeasts and ages on its lees for six months in barrel. The wine is simultaneously rich, clean, vibrant and elegant. An umami delight, with wild herb and blossom coupled with lemon cream and medium-weighted with peach fruit. This is one of southern France’s benchmark white wines and simply unmissable. White Burgundy drinkers take heed.
"Sourced from 32 different parcels across the entire estate, an absolute classic Collioure Blanc from this excellent estate. Owner Philippe Gard says that Grenache Gris does not support mediocrity and you can understand that from this cuvée. Very low yields 14h/ha, wild yeast ferment in barrel and aged for 7 months there is so much purity, elegance and class on show." - Matt Stubbs MW, Tim Atkin MW Languedoc Report
Coume del Mas ‘Schistes’ Collioure AOP Rouge
How thrilled I was to hear Andy’s words at our first meeting - “Why would someone put their finest Grenache into oak?” 100% old vine Grenache from about 30 different parcels, this is unlike the Australian face of Grenache. The fruit is hand-sorted, destemmed, and fermented in stainless steel with nine months in tank following. The result is a medium-bodied, deeply pure wine of pristine dark fruit, cherry liqueur, and that inherent freshness that makes it a sensational glass of red. *Please note there is a tiny allocation for Australia.
Coume del Mas ‘Quadratur’ Collioure AOP Rouge
One of the pinnacles of Catalan red wine. ‘Quadratur’ is a powerfully elegant, jaw-dropping blend of ancient vine Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan. Sun-baked, schist soil terraces are the key here, rendering wines simultaneaously rich and freshly elegant. Easily rivals it's cousins in the Rhone, and smashes Priorat, in both the quality and price stakes.
“Alluring and seductive aromas of crushed blackberries, cured meat and thyme unfold effortlessly onto a bold palate that brings a whack of flavour. At once both savoury and sweet, herbal and fruited, it evokes a sense of place, of rugged wild landscapes. The umani, meaty side to the wine softens with air and the drinker is enveloped by fresh juicy peppery plums, blueberries and salty blackberries. It's brought to a haunting close with a lick of salty minerality and fine-grained tannins. A soulful wine.” - Natalie Earl, Decanter.
THE FORTIFIEDS
NV Coume del Mas ‘Tradition’ Banyuls Rouge (750ml)
Banyuls wines are produced from intense, extremely ripe Grenache Noir that is fortified at around 8% with a neutral grape spirit. Akin to Port in some respects, these wines however, are lower in alcohol and much ‘finer’, fresher and balanced. True Mediterranen treasures. ‘Tradition’ is a NV wine that goes through many years of oxidative ageing in various barrels. The current vintage of Tradition has components blended back to 2008. Match with cured meats, nuts and cheeses.
"There is a lot going on here in this oxidative style of Banyuls. Dried figs, dates, kirsch and notes of caramel and dark chocolate combine with fine elegance and persistence. Tannins have fully integrated after 5 years in oak foudres and finishes with a fine medicinal finish." - Matt Stubbs MW, Tim Atkin Langedoc Report
Coume del Mas ‘Galateo’ Banyuls Rouge (500ml)
‘Galateo’ is 100% old vine Grenache Noir fortified on skins – a key procedure that helps extraction of colour, tannin and prevents oxidation. The wine is then aged in 225 litre, older oak casks for a minimum of six months before bottling. It is a dense, deep wine that is a fascinating match with red meat, or alternatively used as a dessert wine for chocolate, dark fruits or cheese.
"Equivalent of the cuvée Schistes but made as a VDN. Gorgeous fruit, real purity, elegant, lovely balance and weight, great acidity to balance 90g/l residual sugar. Just the right balance of alcohol and sugar. From the interior vineyards not those close to the sea." - Matt Stubbs MW, Tim Atkin Langedoc Report
FURTHER READING
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