VALLDOLINA
ALT PENÉDES
“Here, in the Can Tutusaus estate (est. 1348), you’ll find the tiny winery of Valldolina and its 11 organic hectares of vineyards. But for the vines the estate is a forest of pine and oak trees, brooms, fennel, rosemary, thyme, lavender and many other Mediterranean plants typical of the protected and diverse ecosystem of the Penedes Garraf.”
A mere half hour to the west of Barcelona lies the Garraf Massif, a coastal, limestone mountain range that is rocky, wild and dotted with the deepest caves in Spain. As a viticultural zone it is classed as ‘Alt Penedès’ which is, terroir speaking, a world away from the plains of Penedès. Based in Olesa de Bonesvalls, the brilliant enologist couple Raimon and Anna are VallDolina, the new face of an ancient estate called Can Tutusaus (documented since 1348). Painstakingly restoring key vineyard sites and evolving our understanding of this hidden gem of Catalan terroir, they control 11 hectares of vine, including some precious Xarel.lo plants over 75 years old. We believe that this sanctuary of sloping terraces, pine forest and remote, cold nights, is the pinnacle growing area for Xarel.lo – a Catalan white variety. Here these wines are stoney, mineral, and driven by brisk acidity, capable of ageing effortlessly in bottle for many years.
THE WINES
VallDolina Xarel.lo Alt Penedès
A scorching Catalan white from the Garrafs mountain range separating Barcelona and Sitges. This is Penedès but very much not Penedès. Instead of the low lying 'vegetable garden' (as it is unkindly referred to) vineyards, this remote mountain range has vines at very high altitude planted in limestone. These two factors set this Xarel.lo apart from the flabby wines grown elsewhere across the region. 70 year old, organically grown Xarel.lo vines dot pine forest terraces around the town of Olesa de Bonesvalls. With this wine, husband and wife team Raimon and Anna, craft a lean, minerally powerhouse that could be a cross between Chablis and chiseled Muscadet. Unbelievable quality at this price point for lovers of driven, pristine, light fruited wine.
VallDolina ‘Clos Ardit’ Xarel.lo Amfora Alt Penedès
Xarel.lo mastery again, this time a textured, gentle weave style with fermentation and 8 months ageing in terracotta amphora. A mere 700 bottles are made from the 0.43 hectare vineyard called Vinya de l’Hort - this beauty is beyond rare. White wine on limestone at altitude is the ultimate combination!
VallDolina ‘Uvala’ Marselan Natural Alt Penedès
Marselan is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache that has low yields and a fascinating fruit character a little reminiscent of its Cabernet genes. Vines for this wine were planted by Raimon's father in the 1980s. Organically farmed and produced without any added sulfur (don't worry, it's a perfectly clean, extremely well crafted wine). It is dark, fruit forward and juicy yet there is ample yet gentle tannin structure underneath that keeps the wine in check and fabulous at the dinner table. Only 900 bottles produced!
FURTHER READING
https://valldolina.com/
